Any ideas on how to make a natty tama "Raw"? Asking because I really dig raw tamas, but some natties are just too well-finished to the point that the usual sweat route doesn't give it that natty stick. I know it would involve a lot of sanding, but what grits do you recommend I use, as well as what techniques?
mix up a little salt and water in a spray bottle. Soak that puppy - let dry - repeat- should raise the grain a lot (depending on the wood)
Rubbing alcohol was a trick I saw from @Brucey im pretty sure. Since then I've done it on quite a few nattys and a lot of different woods, most without having to sand. I did have to sand/rough up an oak KROM deluxe and an ash Sol Flow. I was very carful to keep it even and not take too much off, just enough to get off the layer that almost seems like a gloss. It even raises what little grain there is on smooth hardwoods like maple birch and walnut. Also it drys very fast and from what I can tell doesn't warp or "water log" the wood. Give it a try on a tama you don't use anymore if you're hesitant but I'd almost swear by it at this point. Good luck!
Ayyyyyy! I’m glad I was able to help man! I’m yet to see any negatives to doing his as well so I would be curious to hear other people’s testimonys lol
Yes, thank you! I agree and it makes sense. It has the same affect as water but alcohol evaporates so quickly that it doesn't stay in the wood and warp like water could potentially do. That said, I've never soaked a tama in water to see the effects but having skateboarded for over 18 years I do know what a waterlogged board feels like. Although that feeling may be desirable for a kendama as long as the tama stays true.
I’ve soaked tamas in water too actually lol and it gives it a real solid grip while moist. Similar to licking the bevel or rubbing sweat on it
One thing you might consider is that a lot of natties are actually finished with some kind of wood finisher (containing oil, wax, or both) too. Sanding or a solvent might be required to get the finish off.
Some natties on the market (like the Sol Flows) seem like they have some sort of coating applied to them. This is why I thought sanding the tama would be the best course of action for making it raw/roughly finished.
If you think it's a finish then I might go with a chemical solution first. It's less likely to cause damage to the shape of the tama like sanding. You can always sand it later if that doesn't work. In my own experience a number of makers of Mahogany, Walnut, Rubberwood, etc. have pretty slick finishes that may have more to do with the wood itself and the final grit they use.